9 reasons why you shouldn’t move to Lisbon
I moved to Lisbon in 2017 from the Netherlands, without knowing exactly why. I owned just a backpack and wanted to volunteer in permaculture for a while. However, as soon as I saw the city, I found it inexplicably beautiful. Perhaps it was the architectural and linguistic similarities to my homeland of Sicily? Or the Portuguese charm of the man who would become my boyfriend? After having lived and traveled in a variety of other places (mostly in cold countries), all of these factors made me feel like this was the place where I wanted to stop for a while.
I’ve witnessed lots of changes in the past 6 years; also, the love for the charming Portuguese man faded a couple of years ago, while I kept growing fonder of Lisbon.
If you’re thinking of making Lisbon your next home but are not entirely sure, this article is intended for you.
Reason #1: Rental prices aren’t for everyone
If you can afford to buy your own place, this won’t apply to you. However, if you’re like the vast majority of people who plan to stay for about six months to one year and are seeking an affordable and high-quality house, do your own research. High rental prices are a consequence of gentrification, which, just like in other places, has taken a gigantic toll on locals over the last couple of years. For a 1-bedroom apartment (downtown or otherwise), as of August 2023, the average price is €1,800, excluding utilities, and the often excessive requests for substantial advance payments or deposits, which many Portuguese landlords require as a financial guarantee due to your non-Portuguese status.
Feeling guilty about contributing to this skyrocketing cost? Don’t.
Reason #2: They feel guilty too
In 1464, Spain and Portugal were granted by the Pope the power to be the sole rulers of the known world through the ‘Treaty of Tordesillas.’ The 16th century, in fact, marked the peak of Portuguese wealth due to the age of ‘discoveries’: voyages to unknown lands, the acquisition of colonies (many of which belonged to easily subdued tribes), and the establishment of numerous fortresses along a commercial route stretching from present-day Iran to Malaysia. (Did you know that Macau was, in fact, Portuguese territory until 1999? Or that parts of India remained under Portuguese rule until 1961?) We’re talking about over 400 years of political dominance and resource exploitation in distant lands, while a river of gold, spices, and more poured into the Portuguese court. On various occasions, Portuguese friends have mentioned that some carry the weight of their distant past actions. This might explain why they seem so welcoming to foreigners. However, on the other hand, another portion of the Portuguese population is nostalgic, feeling saudade for a city and a country that now ‘belongs to foreigners.’
Reason #3: You don’t wanna witness men’s public urination
Lisbon, like other Southern countries, has its odors. It’s the heat. It’s the sardines sizzling on barbecues. It’s the way the garbage is collected (even though many downtown areas are serviced nightly), and lack of civic responsibility that stops some people from tossing dogs-chewed-armchairs on the streets. However, I’m referring to something different: grown men who, in broad daylight, choose a corner to relieve themselves as if it were still the Middle Ages. I’m not implying that all Portuguese individuals do this; don’t forget that there’s a significant immigration population from cultures where squatting in public is accepted. But be warned, this is something that you will encounter (or smell), in unexpected places, and it’s not pleasant!
Reason #4: You enjoy driving or taking public transportation
The metro is the most efficient way to get around Lisbon, until there’s a strike, or on weekends when a single carriage must accommodate a thousand passengers. During summer, things generally become worse, especially in June when train conductors strike just before the extensive 4-week celebration honouring Saint Anthony. It’s not a chance to see stranded tourists clutching beach umbrellas for dear life, exasperated locals trying to commute on the Lisbon-Cascais line, and countless other individuals hanging unable to reach the nearest beach towns. The good news is that Uber is affordable and might spare you a headache or two, especially if you’re travelling with a group. However, bear in mind that during peak traffic hours, the city and its suburbs can devolve into a nightmare.
Reason #5: Rich countries are your thing
In my forecast, at this rate, Lisbon will become the next Dubai, although appearances are deceiving. The minimum average salary still hovers around €760 (approximately $833) per month before taxes — let that sink in. A typical Portuguese individual with some additional benefits (kids? Food stamps?) working full-time in a supermarket and earning a net monthly income of €800 to €900 is content. Only 10 years ago, Lisbon was considered quite unsafe: many past visitors seem to share similar experiences (‘I was robbed,’ ‘My bag was stolen’). Hopping on a train to Sintra, nose against the window, meant staring at real slums. Then, the government took steps to clean up the streets, switched to a different approach to managing hard drugs to decrease overdose rates (and succeeded), creating conditions to attract foreign investors. Please refrain from thinking that Portugal is the ‘California of Europe.’ It is not — although we do have a few homeless here and there, too.
Reason #6: You dislike walking
Lisbon historic downtown is comprised of narrow cobblestone streets, with alleyways that may appear romantic during your first week. One month in, you’ll find yourself cursing the heavens as you deal with:
- Steep hills
- Inadequate bus coverage (although buses manage to navigate most areas of the old district, they may come to a standstill when a car obstructs the way, and that happens often)
- Limited proximity of convenience stores
- Heavy bags to carry (if you have a vehicle, chances are you won’t find parking anywhere near your place)
- Intense heat, exacerbating the challenges
- When it rains, the mosaic-like sidewalks (calçada portuguesa) become slippery and your Havaianas, which in Europe we use just to go to the beach, isn’t the safest choice.
Reason #7: You prefer quiet surroundings
Portuguese houses are typically old, damp and small, and lack proper insulation against weather and noise. Moreover, a multitude of cars and public transportation, mopeds, scooters, all crisscross the city within a very confined space. Unless you’re lucky to live in a townhouse, or a tranquil suburban area far removed from the chaos, sorry to say that even your expensive apartment won’t be probably spared by the everyday madness. This is particularly true if you choose to reside in downtown Lisbon: make sure to opt for the top floor, or get a good pair of earbuds.
Reason #8: Lisbon isn’t always sunny and warm
This may come as a shock to many (I experienced it myself). However, we are not in the Caribbean or Miami: Portugal experiences cold days in January, February and March. Also, the difference in temperature range between day and night is a lot (those sunburned legs from the morning can turn icy at night). This is due to the cooling breeze from the Atlantic Ocean which is also a relief, and the reason why in August you won’t bake as badly as when in Madrid or Rome. Nevertheless, this refreshing breeze results in colder water. If you’re a surfer, you’ll probably love living here. Otherwise, you might want to consider places like Tavira or Vila Real de Santo António, which are closer to Spain and boast a milder climate, offering warmer ocean temperatures. Additionally, climate change has affected Lisbon as everywhere else, resulting in significant flooding: expect more rain than you might think.
Reason #9: You don’t like a relaxed pace of life
Despite being a bustling cosmopolitan capital, Lisbon operates at a leisurely rhythm more than other major southern European cities. Anticipate waiting 30 minutes in line to pay for a takeaway coffee or nearly being ignored while a post office employee chit-chats with a customer about the recent erratic weather wreaking havoc on crops. If you decide to make a home here, embrace patience and, most importantly, take it easy. In fact, this unhurried pace contributes to Lisbon’s unique charm — and we love it this way.
The Takeaway
Lisbon’s metropolitan area seamlessly blends the old and the new, where Neo-gothic and Art Deco coexist alongside hills crowned with medieval castles and opulent penthouses camouflaged within wobbly buildings with cracked Moorish-style tiles. Plus, today the Portuguese capital seems to offer something for every taste, featuring diverse architectures and landscapes that converge like mushrooms sprouting on its seven hills, excellent restaurants, a busy nightlife — you name it. As an observer, I am often left in awe, wandering in admiration of one of Europe’s most captivating yet controversial cities — a place that can be at once slow, relaxed, traditional, and old-fashioned, while also trying to embrace the future. I like to consider all of this without losing sight of the realities of everyday life here, and I encourage you to do the same.
Are you considering moving to Lisbon soon, despite my points? Throughout my 6 years in town, I have helped countless people to enjoy this place or help define the details before taking the plunge. Feel free to contact me today for a consultation session.
