5-day itinerary
Day 1
- The old town: Alfama and Mouraria
Have an introduction to the city by starting from the oldest neighborhood, Alfama. Stop at Cathedral Sé, from where you can keep walking (hiking!) until the slopes of the Moorish S. George Castle. Delight yourself among alleys wrapped in historical tiles, and have a pastel de nata in Pastelaria Santo António(Rua do Milagre de Santo António). Keep descending, and pass through the colorful Calçada do Marquês de Tancos until Largo São Cristóvão. You’re now in the heart of Mouraria, the multi-ethnic district that street art lovers will particularly appreciate. Check the murals — tribute to traditional fado music singer Maria Severa — or the pictures of historical residents in Beco das Farinhas. Those who can’t resist exotic and/or Middle Eastern flavors will feel at home — have a try of Mozambican flavors in Cantinho do Aziz.
Follow the stairs down and turn right to find Martim Moniz Square.
> Lunch: TOPO for a hamburger and a supreme view
(Extra: After lunch, hop on tram 28; the departure is on the other side of the square. Once you reach the terminal in Campo de Ourique, hop on the same ride to go back to Martim Moniz square.)
- The downtown area: Baixa and Chiado
From Rossio Square, head south by walking along the popular Rua Augustauntil you reach Praça do Comercio: this is the most important square of the city and the heart of the Baixa district. To reach Chiado, look for the shopping mall Armazéns do Chiado: in front of you opens the lively Rua do Carmo. Ignore it for now and take the tunnel and the ascent (Calçada do Sacramento) next to Oysho shop instead. The earthquake-emblem-roofless church Igreja do Carmo next to the Republican guards’ palace (GNR) is where, in 1974, the dictatorship ended through a Carnation revolution. Keep going towards the Santa Justa lift (take the alley next to the church, Travessa Dom Pedro de Menezes): on the first floor, you’ll be stunned by an unrestricted 360° view. Go back to Chiado by crossing Rua Garrett and dream about a Bohemian Lisbon while flicking through pages in the Guinness World Record bookstore (Bertrand bookstore). The most popular Portuguese poet, Fernando Pessoa, will be waiting for you, sitting in front of the A Brasileira 20th century coffee shop. Reach the square named after the Portuguese Shakespeare, Luís de Camões, and, if you fancy another pastel, check out Manteigaria. Bairro Alto’s tightly tangled streets offer the São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint as a well-deserved finish line.
> Dinner with octopus (and more 5-star fish) in CEVICERIA
Day 2
- Belém
You can admire the majestic Jerónimos Monastery in Belém district, west of the city center. Cross the Imperial Gardens (once the restoration works will be over) and head south towards the Monument to Geographical Discoveries through the underground tunnel in front of this little kiosk. With your pre-booked ticket, a lift will disclose superb views. Delight in modern and contemporary artistic wonders at the Berardo Collection. (On Saturdays, entry is free.) Keep walking along the river to find the iconic Belém Tower and spend some time being lazy on the grass. The huge airplane on the left side of the garden is a tribute to the first crossing of the Atlantic (1922), when two Portuguese took off for Brazil from that spot. If you want to get back into town using public transport, simply walk across the bridge behind you and look for tram and bus stops on Rua Bartolomeu Dias.
>Lunch with grilled sardines or traditional codfish (bacalhau) under 10 EUR in Os Dois da Torre
>Coffee and pastel in Pastéis de Belém
- The riverbank
Stop in Praça Afonso de Albuquerque to admire the statue of one of the protagonists of the discoveries, as well as the Presidential Palace with its guards. Follow Rua da Junqueira until it crosses Largo Marquês Angeja: here, a footbridge will lead to the panoramic roof of MAAT Museum. Have fun while discovering one of the most popular outdoor areas of the city: you can people watch or sip a mojito in one of the many bars of Santo Amaro Docks, right under the 25th April Bridge. Keep following the path (or the runners) until Cais do Sodré Station.
> Dinner in TIME OUT Market. If you don’t want to be spoiled for choice or stay indoors, try 100 Montaditos’ salty tapas and pints.
Day 3
- Expo Park & East Lisbon
Ride the red line of the metro until Oriente. Make your way towards Parque das Nações by walking next to the river. Pass by the Vasco da Gama Tower until reaching the viewpoint on the second longest European bridge. Immerse yourself in this Portuguese 90s-looking-business-atmosphere and then head to the biggest indoor aquarium in Europe (Ocenarium). Let it wake up the child sleeping inside you — when you have had enough, come back to reality inside the shiny Casino.
The Expo area is scattered with sculptures, graffiti and street art — how many of the 55 pieces can you spot?
>Lunch with luscious cuts in Brasserie de L’Entrecôte. For fast food, visit the Vasco da Gama mall: wide choice, a complementary terrace and panoramic view.
- Eduardo VII Park, Avenida da Liberdade & Rossio
Hop back on the red line until terminal São Sebastião. If you have an artsy taste, you can’t skip Calouste Gulbenkian Museum (but first, stop at O Pão Nosso for an XL creamy coffee). Go back by walking along El Corte Inglés mall to explore the adjacent Amália Rodrigues Garden. Hike to the top of the highest side to enjoy a mouth-dropping view of Baixa and the river. Get close to the huge Portuguese flag and the 25th April Monument: you are already in Edward VII Park.
In these 26 hectares of green softness, enjoy the sweetness of doing nothing — as we Italians say. Then pass by the Marquis of Pombal statue to find yourself in the luxurious Avenida da Libertade. This 1.5 km of Gucci and Chanel-like-boutiques also offers kiosks to sit by and sip a chilled white wine. A bit further down, you will see the Hard Rock Café, the 1950s St. George cinema, and, after Restauradores Square, the iconic Rossio Train Station. End your walk in Praça D.Pedro IV (or Rossio: the big square) and enjoy a traditional shot of sour cherry liqueur ginjinha (pronounced as in “ginia” of Virginia — I know you will order a second one!).
> Dinner: vintage Portuguese cuisine in DUQUE, or his better half, the DUQUESA
Extra: if you have time and haven’t done it yet, go to Martim Moniz Square to catch tram 28 for an unforgettable night ride — be aware of pickpockets!
Day 4
◦ Estrela, São Bento & Pink Street
Rise early to head towards the Estrela Basilica: you’ll enjoy a peaceful, birds-chirping accompanied breakfast in Bananacafe, which is inside the garden in front of the massive example of Baroque and Neoclassicism. Check Poet Fernando Pessoa house (the poet with the statue in Chiado) or just revel in the picturesque calçada. Stop to admire the neoclassic lions guarding the Parliament, and walk down Rua de São Bento. Let yourself be enchanted by the mix of old tile-wrapped buildings and contemporary hipster coffee. If you’re short on reading material, the travel-themed Palavra do Viajante Bookstore will give you some real inspiration (in different languages). The junction with Rua do Poço dos Negros is one of the most characteristic corners to photograph. Have fun (or lunch) inside the alleys that lead to Calçada Marquês Abrantes. Keep going straight for about 1 km, check the Bica funicular, and soon you’ll reach the doorsteps of all-nighter favorite Pink Street.
>Lunch BBQ in BONO Restaurant
- LX factory, Village Underground and Alcântara
Have a healthy post-steak walk along the river for about 3.5 km — or skip the fatigue by grabbing the 15E tram to reach the creative hub of LX Factory. 23.000m2 of well-thought out originality does not need suggestions but deserves to be wandered around in freedom. When you get tired, check out the Village Underground, right next door. It is an urban-themed centre that aims at culture promulgation. If you love skateboards and street art, this is your Mecca.
> Tiger prawn-based dinner in O PALACIO. A local IPA in QUIMERA BREW PUB is another great way to end the day inside a hidden tunnel used by the last king of Portugal to escape from the Republican riots of 1910.
Day 5 (option 1)
◦ Sintra
A 40-minute train ride from Rossio Train Station will lead you to the most romantic town of Portugal. Leave early if you want to get the most out of your day — you’ll be surprised by how much stuff is there — or save time with an Uber ride. (If you’re not up for a walk, see the end of the article for different recommendations.) Start with an outstanding coffee in Saudades or Queijadas da Sapa. Keep going along the Volta do Duche Avenue — while getting acquainted with the forest’s sharp scents, you’ll meet an old Moorish Fountain, contemporary sculptures, street artists and craftsmen. Follow the Rua Consiglieri Pedroso street to admire the Lawrence Hotel where Lord Byron started spreading the word about this paradise on Earth. Avenida Garrett will get you to the fairy Quinta da Regaleira. On your way back, before Hotel Lawrence, keep right.
> Sangria and meaty sandwich-based lunch (prego) in TASCANTIGA
If you want to stay the afternoon, through the Estrada da Pena, follow the signs for the Palacio da Pena e Palacio dos Mouros hike (Pena Palace and Moorish Castle). Find the path to immerse yourself inside the most suggestive Portuguese mountains (Serra de Sintra). Passing by villas, gardens, tunnels, streams and worldwide vegetation capable of surviving due to the Sintra Mediterranean microclimate: a climb inside this park is an all-round sensory experience. If you don’t want to visit the Pena Palace (4 hours, together with the park), you can head back to town with the city bus, a tuk tuk or by walking the Estrada da Pena.
If steep walks aren’t your thing, choose among the following bus options:
– Scotturb n° 434 > Pena loop ride for 3.90€
– Scotturb n° 434 Hop on-Hop off > This loop stops at Moorish Castle, Pena Palace, National Sintra Palace, and the Freedom Park for 6.90€.
The alternative is to negotiate with a tuk tuk driver to combine a mode of transportation and (hopefully) a tour guide.
> Traditional homemade dinner in METAMORPHOSIS
Day 5 (option 2)
◦Lapa and Santos-o-Velho
Walking up Lapa Hill (sometimes confused with Estrela, given its proximity), between climbs and descents, catch ordinary, privileged views of the Tejo River, like the one on R. Das Trinas approximately at house number 40. Keep walking along R. Da Lapa and visit the very Portuguese NO·NO contemporary art gallery. Through R. de Sant’Ana à Lapa, go down in the direction of my second favorite Lisbon neighborhood: Santos. Visit one of the many art and decoration boutiques (like Paris: Sete), the Puppet Museum (Museu da Marioneta), and, on the gorgeous looking R. Da Janelas Verdes, the Ancient History Museum (Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga). if you’re not up for it, you can still enter through the main door and sit at the outdoor café.
> Lunch BOULANGERIE for some of the best food you’ll ever have. Don’t skip a cocktail on the terrace of LE CHAT, with superb river views.
- Anjos e Graça
For your last half day, head to Anjos (grab the metro green line in Cais do Sodré). Start with the viewpoint of Monte Goudo: a city park with a terrace and the umpteenth Instagrammable scene. Keep your fingers crossed for finding Casa Independente open: this multicultural space can intrigue even a sturdy accountant. Anjos is an old district with a young touch — just notice how many indie bars are crowding into a small space. Moko Café, Brick Café, and Alô Alô are some of the many you might want to check out. This cosmopolitan vibe holds a peculiar nostalgic vibe (hello, saudade) from which it is impossible to separate Lisbon. Start exploring Graça with Galleria Arte Graça (Art Gallery Graça). Heading towards Largo da Graça, keep your eyes alert for some historically-charged street art examples.
Graça is a district where the average Portuguese lives — and the setting itself embodies this presence. If your sweet tooth calls, check out what’s freshly baked in SAGA. Walk this medium-sized avenue until you get to Graça garden and viewpoint (jardim e miradouro da Graça). I couldn’t think of a better farewell than sipping wine in one of these terraced bars. If you’re curious to know an original and sustainable example of Portuguese entrepreneurship, check the Garbags Shop Graça; it’s on the calçada below the viewpoint.
> Last supper with seafood risotto in A MOURISCA — where the waiters cross the busy street holding heavy trays.
A last drink in one of the panoramic bars of Porta do Sol is the perfect way to say goodbye to this city — until next time 🙂
