Lisbon in 24h, self-guided tour
This 24h self-guided tour will avoid entrance fees and help you cover as much as you can. For simplicity, I have divided the itinerary into three sections. Mix & match, or pick just one for a chilled day. If you are quick enough, you can cover the whole list.
Alfama — The old town
Start: Casa dos Bicos
End: Miradouro Elevador
Length: 2 hours
The old town of Lisbon is a journey back in time, to when the Moors conquered the highest hill of the city through the building of a fortress.
Before immersing yourself in the 8th century, stop by the Renaissance Palace called “Spiky House” (Casa dos bicos) that today hosts the foundation of the only Portuguese Nobel Prize for literature, José Saramago. Hike up to the Medieval Cathedral (Sè), built in 1147 to celebrate the siege of the castle, right where a majestic mosque used to stand. Keep going through the web of alleys and sets of stairs, little squares — and more stairs — until the Porta do Sol viewpoint (“the sun’s gate” in Portuguese). When you are done with pictures, leave it behind to keep up the ascent until the slopes of the Muslim fortress, the Castle of St. George. Stop inside the pastry shop Pastelaria Sto. António and treat yourself with a yummy custard tart (pastel de nata), then head to the viewpoint called elevador (lift), (on Google Maps: elevador da Baixa) to enjoy a sneak peek at the beauty that is coming next!
Baixa and Chiado — the downtown area
Start: Miradouro Elevador
End: Miradouro Adamastor
Length: 3 hours
Ride the lift down and through Rua Da Madalena to reach Praça da Figueira. Have a taste of the Portuguese hamburger (called bifana) in Casa das bifanas with your eyes on a stunning view of the castle. (If you just want to snack on something, head to Confeitaria Nacional instead.) Behind you, cross the popular Rossio Square (or Pedro IV Square) to reach the equally well-known Carmo Church. It was built in the 15th century to celebrate the independence of Portugal from Spain. Today it is a symbol of the earthquake and hosts an Archeological Museum. Leaving the church on your left, take the alley that leads you through the first floor of the Santa Justa lift. In that sweeping view, try to spot some corners of Alfama you’ve just visited! Then go down the same stairs, and, leaving the church rose window on your right, take another set of stairs that go down. Find Rua Garret: you’ve reached the heart of Chiado, the shopping area and Bohemian neighborhood. The bar A Brasileira used to be one of the most popular among the artists of the early 20th century. One afficionado was Fernando Pessoa, and he’s still present to this day; can you spot his statue? He’s facing António Ribeiro Chiado, another important artist, after whom the neighborhood was named. The last literary protagonist is in Luis Camões Square. The statue represents the sailor, soldier — hence the sword — and author of the epic poem Os Lusíadas (1572), who became popular because of his Portuguese language: modern and way ahead of its time. Walk the colorful Calçada do Combro, and, at the corner with Pasteleria Orion, turn left. Welcome to the Sta. Catarina — Adamastor viewpoint, a fantastic window on the western side of the city.
Cais do Sodré and the riverbank
Start: Miradouro Adamastor
End: Praça do Comércio
Length: 2 hours
From the viewpoint, head to the Time Out Market food and wine gallery. I do hope there are no restrictions in place and you can choose delicious food and excellent drinks. Afterwards, go to Pink Street — today’s (or yesterday’s?) center of nightlife. At last, walk along the River Tagus until the most important square of the city: Praça do Comércio. You may wonder who the gentleman on that horse is. His name is Joseph I and he was the Portuguese monarch, when, in 1755, the downtown area was razed to the ground: first a tsunami wave, then an 8.5 Richter scale earthquake (almost 60 seconds long) and then 3 long days of fire! The man was so shocked by the disaster that caused the deaths of 60,000 people, he (literally) ran away to the countryside where he lived in a tent until he died. The future of the city was given into the hands of a brave nobleman called Marquês de Pombal. He quickly approved an urban plan where harmony prevailed between the width of the streets and the width and height of the buildings. Even the Arch that opens onto Augusta Street has perfect proportions. This is where Lisbon has been doing its trade since 1775, in a brand new square.
