Viewpoints & green areas in Lisbon
Many people know, even before landing, that Lisbon is ideal for savoring views. The year-round sweaty, gluteal-shaping, steep, stone alleys certainly come with more than a reward. You will soon discover that the city is built “in layers.” Get on top of the hills to find roofs and bell towers sprouting like mushrooms. Tiles and walls overlap without room to breathe. Another perspective I love is the exact opposite: feet touching the Tagus, nose pointed upwards. Your eyes will be overwhelmed by windows arches, yellow and green walls of the tiny dwarf-like houses of Alfama Hill, or Estrela’s bell tower and Alcantara’s graffiti. Google Maps name the neighborhoods according to conselhos — councils — while people use the term “bairros”: this might generate a bit of confusion. In addition to the aforementioned seven hills, from which you can find countless corners to stop and go Wow, the city’s viewpoints are wonders by day or night — a beauty often taken for granted by the locals. For nature lovers, a lot of massed concrete and majolica can be intimidating. Sadly Lisbon doesn’t have many green areas, but, even so, you’ll be glad to find those few worthwhile spots.
Miradouro da Senhora do Monte (Graça)
Viewpoint Nossa Senhora do Monte (Our Lady of the Mount) perches on the top of the Graça Hill, the oldest part of the city. This is perhaps the place that benefited the most from the absence of the masses during the lockdown. There was the couple uncorking a white at sunset, the lazy reader lying like a lizard in the sun during warm winter mornings — so sunny. Or the kids with a joint and a loud radio belting rap songs. It seemed to be going back to those years when I didn’t know that Lisbon every local talks about, when there was a robust local identity. Is it about the roofs or graffiti on the walls, flags rising above the Moorish castle or the 25th April Bridge view, crowning calm river waters? It doesn’t really matters, from here, everything seems to whisper Lisboa é linda (Lisbon is beautiful).
Jardim da Cerca da Graça (Graça)
Stay in the area to visit this garden or have a drink at its kiosk. From the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, you just have to go down a little further: you will find it on your left. Go on sunny hot days, when you want to lie in the sun and feel the grass stinging your skin and do absolutely nothing. During such days, you can find locals doing yoga next to strawberry trees — one of the 180 specialties planted — others read, shirt-less. And then: groups of friends with guitar and red wine, beach bonfire style, mothers with strollers, lovers and kisses. It is a small oasis within the city, away from the noise of traffic and people running to and fro. The river viewed next to buildings and the sky tinted with the red brushes of sunset look like an artwork.
Jardim do Torel (Santo António)
This once little-known green handkerchief of Lisbon was part of an 18th-century noble property that belonged to the Thorel family of the Netherlands. The municipality of Lisbon took possession in 1928 and transformed this space into a public garden, also considered one of the “city beaches.” If you love swimming pools with sand transported by the ocean, you can use this site in the summer. While I recommend soaking your sweaty feet in Sintra or Cascais if you don’t mind the cold ocean water, do come here to relax on wooden benches decorated with Pessoa’s and Ary Dos Santos’s love poems. You will find a panorama that extends from the Valley of Avenida da Liberdade, the Hill of San Rocco (Bairro Alto) with the São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint, as well as Rua Augusta Arch, the statue of D. Pedro IV in Rossio or the Santa Justa lift in Baixa-Chiado. There are lavender, verbena and viperine candida scents — a species of blue lavender (Echium candicans) imported from Madeira Island. What’s more relaxing than this?
When I ended up in this abandoned building of enormous proportions, I was wondering why I didn’t know about this fantastic view. The second reaction was an attack of curiosity: what was there in the past? How come there is a labyrinth of circular walls that have graffiti and decorated art deco glass?
This is how I discovered the Panoramic Restaurant. It used to be the biggest venue of this kind in Lisbon: 7000 square meters and the most envied view. The space was inaugurated in 1968, rising up 205 meters above sea level. For decades, it welcomed locals and passing VIPs like David Bowie. Originally, the project was assigned to Francisco Keil do Amaral, one of the 20th century’s most influential Portuguese architects — he also built the Lisbon Airport. The mayor rejected his project and he passed it on to Chaves da Costa, who turned the building into a closed circular restaurant, except for the façades that were covered by windows. Before the final closure in 2001, the place housed a nightclub, a bingo hall, an office and a warehouse.
None of these activities survive. Today’s amazement mingles with a bitter aftertaste — chase it away by strolling through the largest green space in the city, Monsanto Park. Inside this building there are works of art — easily distinguishable from vandalism. AkaCorleone, Add Fuel, Tamara Alves and Wasted Rita created and donated them during the Panoramica Monsanto’s artistic residency. They are just a little example of Lisbon’s (street) art’s excellence.
Viewpoint of the Monument to the Discoveries (Belém)
This second version of the Monument to the Discoveries located in Belém was rebuilt in 1960. It was the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator, father of Portugal’s geographical discoveries. (The original was demolished in 1943, already damaged by a cyclone.) In 1985, the Centro Cultural das Descobertas (Discoveries Cultural Center) was inaugurated. Architect Fernando Ramalho renovated the monument’s interiors and equipped them with a viewpoint. An elevator will take you to the top of 56m, from which you can admire the Tagus River that stretches under the 25th April Bridge to Almada on one side, Ajuda Hill and the Hieronymites Monastery on the other side. Remember to look down for the 14-meter planisphere: from that height, the black and red limestone hold a privileged perspective. You can buy the reduced ticket (3 euro) or full ticket (6 euro) through the following link.
When you return with your feet on the ground, admire the statues of the Portuguese Renaissance protagonists carved in the limestone of Sintra: from the sovereign Filippa of Lancaster, to the poet Luís de Camões, passing through the inevitable protagonist: Henry the navigator. He’s at the head of the crew, caravel in hand and eyes pointed to the horizon.
Perhaps few are the places that arouse an Oooooooh among visitors like this one. The city lift, located in the middle of the elegant Chiado District, was built in the early 19th century to make aristocrats’ life easier. The rear part of the structure includes a corridor that connects the upper part of the city (Chiado) with the lower one (Baixa). If you’re at the bottom (from Rua Aurea), the material and design will make you think of the Eiffel Tower. That’s for a reason: a former student of Gustave Eiffel was the architect who worked on this project. I recommend accessing the elevator from the stairs in front of the Carmelite Church (the roofless church). Rather than aristocrats, today, you’ll find tourists busy taking selfies.
On a plane
Several times, I have heard that for more than one airline, in order to pilot to or from Lisbon, the crew need to have some experience. Truth or legend, it is certain that if you already know the much-criticized city airport, you will not find the idea that absurd. The first time I saw the left wing of an airplane, like a giant bird, brushing the top floor of the tallest building of Avenida do Brasil, it had a kind of effect on me! When you land, keep your eyes (and zoom lens) wide open. For some time now, there has been talk of a new airport on the other side of the river: the latest official news speaks of “diggers” already ready. If you don’t hurry, you will miss the show.
Miradouro de Santa Luzia and Miradouro das Portas do Sol (Alfama)
With sol or with the moon, these two viewpoints that scratch the castle of St. George’s feet are mandatory stops. Excellent choice for a sunny coffee in the little kiosk facing the Visual Art museum. Find it next to the statue of St. Vincent, Lisbon’s patron saint.
Miradouro São Pedro de Alcântara (Bairro Alto)
Another viewpoint that I always recommend is located between Bairro Alto and Estrela. With the castle facing the bay, modernity seems to be left in the background. On the corner there is a bar serving snacks and beers. Enjoy the view on those benches, great also to relax or read a book.
Eduardo VII Park (Avenidas Novas)
If it’s hot, and you are around the Baixa area and want to bask on the grass, this is the park for you. Climb to the top to find the April 25 memorial. Most of all, there is an uninterrupted view that, from the green of the meadows, leads you to the blue where sky and earth meet. The only downside? The statue of the voluminous wigged Pombal’s Marquis that reigns in the center of the square. Before COVID-19, the city was so polluted to make it impossible to spot Almada and its roofs across the river. Nature say thanks too, not just our sight.
